The Northern Conundrum

January 31, 2009

Just what do you do with North Korea?

North Korea has been back in the papers this week, escalating the tension between themselves and South Korea by accusing the South of pushing the two countries to the brink of war and by cutting all agreements with the South.

South Korean Prime Minister, Han Seung-soo, has responded from the World Economic Forum in Davos appealing for dialogue.  Meanwhile, the US replied by saying that North Korea dropping its accords with South Korea is “distinctly not helpful“.

Some commentators on discussion board are joking that North Korea should come out once and for all, and tell the world that Kim Jong-Il is dead and stop the charades. Others believe its all realpolitik to deal with a new US administration and a less accommodating South Korean administration than the previous two.

Whatever the story perhaps it is high time, tough decisions are made and strategic planning and preparations are carried out amongst the five key nations of South Korea, China, Japan, the US and Russia on how to cease this nonsense and bring about peace to the citizens of North Korea once and for all.


My thoughts on life, death, fear, anxiety, prejudice and everything in between

January 31, 2009

The journey of a thousand miles begins with a single step.

- Confucius

When you have completed 95 percent of your journey, you are only halfway there.

- Japanese proverb

- Warning: The following is a long post of largely self-indulgent twaddle. If you are not a fan of this style of navel-grazing, please turn back now. If you are still interested, read on at your own risk!

This morning I’ve been pondering many things about life, death, living abroad, fears, anxieties and the journey of discovery that is life. Australians are typically known as down-to-Earth, stoic, good natured, humourous people who tend to mock those who dwell in excessive navel-grazing, especially Americans. While, I admire my fellow countrymens’ spirit of onward and upward, not letting the past drag you down and moving with life’s challenges without overly questioning your past. I think there is a place for introspection and re-evaluating your life and life goals as time goes on.

I’ve always been a fairly contemplative person even as a kid, I’d often ponder all life’s great mysteries – why are we here?, why did I get born at this place and time? - why is there is no Disneyland in Australia? I still remember my school cricket coach chastising me for letting the ball run past in the field, he asked why didn’t I chase it? I replied that I was daydreaming. He chuckled with a knowing laugh.

Another thing I’ve always been is a fairly anxious, wound-up individual underneath my often laidback, quiet, self-deprecating veneer. I put a lot of this down to the time of my birth. I was born just 16 days after my mother’s mother died from a long, painful bout of breast cancer. During this time, my grandmother was longing to be able to see me but was confident that she’d see me before anyone else in the afterlife if her time came before I was born. I imagine this was a very traumatic time for my mother and imagine that the stress and anxiety would have played a part in my yet-to-be-born development. Though, mother as my father are firmly in the camp of moving on with life’s challenges with minimal fuss and/or introspection, and my queries on this topic have always been brushed aside with their typical stoic behaviour.

I happened to be born with the rare illness of congenital lactose intolerance whereby my body was even incapable of processing the lactose from my mother’s milk. This is illness progressed to such a point that it was near-fatal, before a doctor accurately diagnosed my condition and recommended non-dairy formula. Indeed, many infants in developing countries still die from this condition and had I been born just 20 years earlier there’s a fair chance I too would have died from this condition. I believe that this has contributed to the way I look at death. I, unlike many individuals, do not fear death in any way, shape, or form as I believe I’ve been close to death before and have nothing to fear from it. In a way, I was given a second chance just after birth and any time longer I spend on this Earth is a bonus. This notion has been further reinforced through my ongoing struggle with depression and anxiety which has stuck with me since adolescence.

I’ve always been a fairly sickly individual. I often mention that I may be fit at times, but I’m never actually healthy. Along with the lactose intolerance, depression and anxiety, I’m allergic to penicillin, suffer mild asthma and have broken 10+ bones in my times, largely due to brittle bones caused by a lack of calcium in my early development and profound lack of coordination and clumsiness!

As I mentioned earlier, both Australia and my family in particular, are not fans of navel-grazing. I was born into a hardworking, strong-minded, intelligent, WASP family where excuses are barely tolerated and you are expected to achieve despite any shortcomings. My parents gave me a very loving yet strong childhood where I was largely unable to use any of difficulties as excuses for not getting where they believe I could and should be. I value my parents for showing this strong approach as I fear I wouldn’t have amounted to much had it not been for their strong guidance.

Depression and anxiety has been  something that’s always been there since my adolescence. I remember as a teenager often being morbidly depressed for no real reason whatsoever. At the time, I just put it down to teenage hormones and dared not let anyone else in on this secret. My depression came to a head during my first year of university, living away from home in Melbourne with my aunt and uncle. Now it had finally got to a point where it couldn’t be hidden and was pushing me to fatalistic conclusions. I never wanted to or attempted to end my own life despite never actually fearing death as I never wanted my family and friends to suffer at my loss and also wanted to leave a better legacy for myself than taking my own way out.

During this time, I one day decided that this wasn’t going to go away by itself and voluntarily went to my GP who recommended a therapist, and so the healing began! What following was some very difficult times in my late teens/early 20s of severe depression and anxiety, panic attacks – which I kept to myself – and a whole host of other hardships. During this time, my parents insisted that I continue my studies and part-time work as they thought I needed the stability of education and employment, and feared I’d never return to uni if I were to pull out. – I credit them on this approach as I have no doubt, I would have lost many years had I dropped out of uni at that point in time. In the end, my pride in myself and family kept me going despite some very difficult years.

The years following were best described as aimlessly treading water and avoiding risks at any chance. This I believe was a fairly natural response to the years preceding. But, did leave me feeling deeply unsatisfied as I had always made a promise to myself to keep challenging myself and living my dreams rather than being trapped by my anxieties and insecurities.

This eventually led me onto Korea. It’s funny, just eight months previous to my arrival in Korea, I vividly remember turning to my Mum whilst watching the Korea-Japan World Cup, “You know what? I’ve never had an interest in visiting Japan, or Korea for that matter!” – Little did I know that just around the corner in 2003, I would take the biggest step of my life so far and move to Jeonju, South Korea to teach English. I’ve been here – for the most part – ever since!

What enabled me to consider moving abroad to a foreign land and culture to teach English was a lingering feeling that I was wasting my life, drowning in fear and anxiety. The September 11 attacks were a catalyst for me to get off my arse and live my life as life is gone in an instant and is a precious gift which we never really know when it’ll run out. I vividly remember watching live images of office workers choosing to flee the World Trade Center buildings hand-in-hand and jump off when faced with the terrible decision of how to deal with the inevitable. These people were innocent folk whose only crime was turning up to work at the wrong place and the wrong time.

9/11 caused me to reflect on my life, its values and my views of the afterlife – or lack thereof. As a result of this time of reflection, I concluded that whilst there is most probably a higher-being, I would classify myself as Agnostic. And, once we die we return to the Earth. There’s no afterlife, there’s no heaven, no hell, no being reincarnated as a frog or Joan of Arc. We return to the Earth, but live on in the form of the elements (Carbon, Oxygen, Calcium, etc.) and matter we leave behind. Life goes on, we change form to become soil, air or some other matter and only our legacy remains. That’s why when my time comes, I choose to be cremated and have my ashes spread from a plane over the centre of Australia so that my ashes can return to the land of my birth and spread throughout the continent via the winds of the arid interior.

This reflection led me to believe that once our time’s up, it’s up. There’s no second chance, there’s no watching loved ones from above, there’s no shoveling coal for the devil in a furnace beneath the ground. That’s it. Game over. You become worm fodder and your consciousness ceases. This thinking gave me the impetus to get on and live my life I have as it’s the only one I’ve got and it would be a waste to be mired in a life of fear and anxiety.

I often also believe I owe it to those less fortunate than myself to live my life the best I can as I have been so unbelievably to have been born where I was, at the time I was and to the family I was. In the great lottery of life, I won a pretty good jackpot right at the start and owe it to myself and others to live it to the best of my potential and to treat all other individuals with love, respect and equality. That’s not to say I’m a great human being. I’m as bad, if not worse, than most. I can be prejudiced, can be rude, can be arrogant, can be nasty at times. But, these are things I’m deeply ashamed of when I catch myself doing this and is something I constantly try to change and minimise in my life.

Which leads me onto Korea. After the ten years before my time in Korea I find Korea to be a cakewalk all in all. I still often find myself returning to my old self when back in Australia – being racked with fear and anxiety and lack of confidence. Whereas in Korea, I am free, I am my true self  and feel I can conquer the world! I often believe life’s struggles and challenges are there to prepare and develop us for further challenges and struggles up ahead. As such, I feel my hardships beforehand have held me in good stead for the many challenges Korea dishes out to non-Koreans.

By all accounts, South Korea is a very comfortable life for Westerners teaching English. We are provided accommodation, employment and are required to pay bugger all tax. That said, there are a load of obstacles in the way of non-Koreans, including Westerners, in South Korea. Most of which arise from deep seeded cultural bias, prejudice, beliefs and racism, coupled with State-endorsed and promoted discrimination and a lack of critical thinking over acceped and established values and beliefs.

South Korea is in many ways a great place that has achieved so much in so little time. But, it’s greatest obstacle is its collective mindset towards non-Koreans and the country will never achieve its full potential without a critical look and evaluation of long-held and largely unquestioned, established cultural beliefs. For South Korea to shine, this needs to change.

Whilst, often being a deeply unpleasant experience. I believe everyone should spent at least some time in a place or country where there are a minority. It challenges a lot of the belief systems you held onto, often unknowingly, and causes you to challenges these beliefs, to analyse and evaluate your current position, and reflect on your behaviour in the past. I’d like to think most people come out of it – if they are lucky enough to leave the place of discrimination – as more rounded individuals as a result of this and better for the exposure.

I, myself, have learned and continue to learn immeasurably from this experience. Granted, I am just as often positively discriminated against due to my appearance/ ethnicity, which is something that is uncomfortable in itself, and I have it nowhere near as hard as many non-Koreans in South Korea. Once again, I am very lucky in this regard and need to understand and appreciate that many others do not share my fortune.

In closing, I’d like to say that life is a never ending journey which doesn’t stop till the lights are off. I am still a young man of rather limited life experiences, but my life so far has taught me to try to appreciate the small things in life we often take for granted and to get out there and live in, and not let past hardships, wrongdoings, anxieties or any other obstacles hold you back.

If you feel there is a greater calling for you, there’s an urge you need to scratch, there’s something you’d love to do but don’t the confidence. I urge you to take the plunge, dive in head first and don’t hold back. This life is the only one we’ve got and it’d be a shame to waste it. There’s a lot I need to and should do myself.

Thank you for reading.


Did Genghis Khan roger my ancestor?

January 30, 2009

Did Genghis Khan – Mongol warlord, Conqueror of Eurasia and all round good bloke – or someone of his ilk, roger my ancestor at some point in time?

Is Genghis Khan my great-grandfather 30 times removed?

- Is a question I’ve increasingly pondered during my stay in Korea. Before Korea, I never envisioned having any Asian ancestry whatsoever but given the number of comments, observations and slurs Koreans have made about my appearance it has made me wonder whether there is some Asian ancestry lurking somewhere in my DNA.

What got me thinking about it today was when I was in the cab talking with the friendly taxi driver in Korean, he asked me where I was from, I replied “Australia”, he then said “You’re of Asian descent, aren’t you?”, to which I replied, before fully thinking over what he just asked, “Yes!”. - This is a big problem of mine here, I also reply yes to questions quickly, even when I haven’t fully given myself enough time to figure out what they’re actually saying. You have no idea, what problems that’s got me into in the past! But, this little interaction did get me curious as to why he thinks I’m of Asian descent? – Was it my general appearance at the time? – Slicked, dark hair, olive complexion, medium build. Or, was it my mannerisms? – Do I somehow act ‘Asian’ rather than ‘Caucasian’? Who knows, but this all has got me wondering …

You may think it’s ludicrous for a person of almost entirely Caucasian ancestry to think they may have Mongol ancestry. But, a study a few years back discovered that 16 million people across or descended from the Eurasian lands Genghis Khan conquered contain his DNA.  Furthermore, Westerners such as this man have been found to contain Genghis Khan’s distinctive genetic structure.

Genealogy is something I’ve been increasingly interested in in the past ten years partly because I’m from a New World nation and as such am not fully aware of my many and mixed ancestors, and also because I receive comments from time to time from people about my genetic make-up. I’m Caucasian of medium build, medium height, olive complexion and brown hair – which can vary greatly in colour according to sun exposure. In Australia, people sometimes assume I’m of Mediterranean descent due to my appearance. Whereas, in Korea I’ve been asked if I come from anywhere from Russia and Germany to the Philippines and Vietnam, go figure!

A lot of this could easily be put down to ignorance on the part of the person inquiring as many Koreans haven’t had all that much interaction with non-Koreans and will assume if you’re not blonde haired, blue eyed and tall, you can’t possibly be a Westerner! However, maybe they do see something I didn’t see until Asia. I even had a native Chinese teacher in my first year say I look like I’m Chinese!

I’ve also encountered comments/slurs on my appearance, almost always from older folks, saying ‘혼혈아’ (mixed breed/ half breed) or ‘똥개’ (mongrel) as I walk by. These comments often leave me wondering just what do they think I’m mixed with!

It’s not surprising to be a daily source of racism in Korea as Korean people largely still believe, and the Korean education still actively promotes that Korean people are a unique and special race of people. They seem to forget that over the course of the past 5,000 years the Mongols, Japanese, Chinese, Manchus, Russians, Americans plus countless others have either traded, based themselves, settled, invaded, conquered, raped and pillaged on this peninsula at some point in time.

Beside light-hearted ribbing here and there, I don’t bother questioning these values over here anymore as I’ve realised it’ll get you nowhere as even highly-educated friends fervently believe this 우리 민족 ‘one people’ nonsense despite oodles of evidence to the contrary. Hell, walking around the streets here I see evidence of Mongol, Chinese, Japanese, Indian, South East Asian, Pacific Island and even Caucasian phenotypes in people’s faces! Deep down, I think most Koreans know their genetic ancestry is quite varied but would rather not admit it and rather focus on the importance of being and acting Korean instead for the sake of national unity.

Am I Asian? - I'm let you decide ...

Am I Asian? - I'll let you decide ...

Me and Mao - we kinda look alike dont we?!

Me and Mao - we kinda look alike don't we?!

What I do know is that I’m a fifth generation (at the latest, 2,000th generation at the earliest!?) Australian predominately of English, Scottish, Irish and Cornish descent. I also know that I have some Jewish ancestry four generations back courtesy of an ancestor by the name of Annie Gouldthorpe, and although never conclusively proven due to inaccurate records and/or prejudice on the part of Government officials and/or my ancestors at the time have distant Aboriginal ancestry, most likely of the Wiradjuri people from five generations back. – This is something that can’t be proven without a conclusive DNA test (which I’ll get round to one day) but is something I’m positive of. I bought my mother a National Geographic Genographic Project DNA pack a few years ago but it only seemed to find that she contains haplogroup H human mitochondrial DNA – like 50% of Europeans.

I’ve also assumed – just judging on appearance – that my mother’s British ancestors reached the British Isles via southern Europe whereas my father’s reached the British Isles via northern Europe. But, that’s just wild guesstimation on my part and can’t be proven without extensive genetic DNA testing …

One thing’s for certain, DNA testing is providing enormous amounts of knowledge and information on human migration patterns and the genetic ancestry of both groups of people and individuals. Another thing  it is showing – which is a good thing – is that we humans are a lot more mixed that we often like to believe. Take Pauline Hanson, for example.

This makes a mockery of racism and nationalism as human history has been defined by the ebbs and flows and intermingling and separating of  groups of people over time as this map brilliantly illustrates. Hopefully, with increased knowledge and information on our ethnic make-up and history, racism and nationalism will be things of the past by 2100 and we’ll all see each other as human, first and foremost.

As for me, I’m sure I’ve got some Asian ancestry somewhere but deep down – like us all – I’m from mother Africa.

Deep down were all from Africa

Deep down we're all African


Seollal in Seoul and Chuncheon :: 춘천 :: 春川

January 29, 2009

I spent Seollal firstly visiting friends in Seoul and then headed over to Chuncheon in Gangwon-do with my buddy for some outdoor ice skating and perhaps a spot of ice fishing too. You may remember Chuncheon from my visit not long ago.

Indeed, it’s the second time I’ve been there in two months and it’s rapidly becoming my favourite city in Korea for several reasons. Firstly, Chuncheon’s a medium-sized, comfortable city of around 250,000 people – similar in size to Suncheon yet it seems to have more attractions and interests to keep you busy along with more Western amentities in the way of restaurants etc.; which leads onto my second reason being Chuncheon is beautifully located amongst mountains and surrounded by man-made lakes ideal for cycling, hiking, fishing, skating, and skiing depending on the season.

Thirdly, Chuncheon’s the set of several Korean dramas in the past and as such has become somewhat of a tourist destination for Japanese housewives and seemingly quite a few Chinese and Taiwanese tourists too given the number of authentic Chinese restaurants I saw – albeit not many but more than you’d expect in a Korean city of its size.

And, last but not least the people seem .. well, friendly and more accommodating to non-Koreans than in Suncheon. Chuncheon is nearby the DMZ and up until recently had a large US base smack bang in the middle of town but they’ve since moved out and it seems Japanese housewives and Chinese students have taken their place; the end result is that the locals are relatively accustomed to and accommodating to furriners, at least more so than in the Deep South of the ROK, where I live.

Being close to the DMZ means you see many young Korean soldiers on their compulsory military service and sense a somewhat more heightened attitude towards their long-lost brethren in the north. Chuncheon and Gangwon-do in general was the base of some of the heaviest fighting in the Korean War – it changed hands several times – and the locals suffered a lot during this time with the city being pretty much razed. As such, there seems to be somewhat more appreciation towards the Allied forces’ help during that time, at least more than you sense down here. Albeit, where I live was a Communist stronghold before, during and just after the war. The locals on the whole down here moderately appreciate not having to eat tree bark for breakfast like their northern brethren but hold a load more resentment than appreciation towards non-Koreans, no matter where they’re from. The longer I’m here, the more I realise this part. I am being a bit harsh here but I’ve become fairly jaded with this place as nearly all my Korean ‘friends’ here have gone on to show their true colours in one way or another eventually…

So, the contract’s up in four months. The economy’s screwed back home. Teaching English in South Korea’s an extremely comfortable job. Perhaps, a university job in Chuncheon is my next adventure! We’ll see  …

In the meantime here’s some pics and a video:

Looking across the frozen river to the lake and mountains

Looking across the frozen river to the lake and mountains

Looking down towards the frozen river & men ice fishing on it

Looking down towards the frozen river & men ice fishing on it

Almost as good as Jesus! I can stand on (frozen) water!

Almost as good as Jesus! I can stand on (frozen) water!

Memorial commemorating Ethiopias involvement in the Korean War

Memorial commemorating Ethiopia's involvement in the Korean War

Skating on the ice of a frozen river

Skating on the ice of a frozen river

Oh, and a dumbass on skates.


새해 복 많이 받으세요~ Happy New Year

January 23, 2009
새해 복 만이 받으세요

새해 복 만이 받으세요 - My girlfriend decided to mark the occasion by dressing in traditional Hanbok and giving salutations! 헉

Well, Seollal, the Korean version of the Lunar New Year is just about upon us and soon we will enter the Year of the Earth Ox. I have the next four days off and will probably head north to either Seoul or Gangwon-do. Luckily, I’ll be going against the flow of the traffic – as most city slickers move to the provinces during this time not vice versa, and luckily I don’t live in China where they’re expecting over 340 million people on the move over the next few days!

It’s going to be cold, the snow is already falling and temperature’s already below zero as a massive cold front moves its way from China onto the Korean peninsula. The night time temperatures up where I’m heading are expected to go as low as -15C but that’s ok with me, some like it hot I like it cool.

‘May the new year bring you much luck’ is a rough translation of the phrase in the title and it, or one of its derivatives, will be repeated ad nauseum over the next few days, just as in the West with our token celebrationary phrases such as ‘Happy Easter’, ‘Merry Christmas’, etc.

Happy New (Lunar) Year! May it bring you much luck and prosperity!