Australia

January 24, 2010

I had a friend write to me asking for tips and places to see when in Australia so I decided to add what I wrote to him onto the blog for anyone who is, was or is contemplating on going to Australia.

What started as a guide on places to see ended up more as a social commentary on the place, but I always end up writing about the society of places as to me it’s often entwinted with the local attractions, and also having been out of the country for the bulk of the past decade, feeling like an outsider-insider looking in, I feel like myself – and the many Australian like me who now live abroad – have a unique perspective on the place as we know, understand and respect the place but at the same time can look with the place with a more balanced, critical and clinical approach than perhaps many locally based Australians can.

Let me know what you think, I’m interested in your thoughts.

~ Australia ~

If you’re planning on going to Australia for up to a month and money isn’t too much of a problem I’d recommend seeing as much of the country as you can as the landscape and geography of the country is very different from one side of the country to another and often the culture and history is a little different too.

I’d recommend you definitely spend time in Sydney, Melbourne and Brisbane/Gold Coast as these are the three biggest cities with often the most to see and do in one location. Sydney is the largest city and first site of European settlement so there is a lot of history there, it also has the advantage of being located on one of the most beautiful natural harbours in the world with great beaches just 10-15km away. I’d recommend you see The Rocks (historical neighbourhood), Downtown & Chinatown/Haymarket (great food), Darling Harbour (just to the west of the city), Bondi and/or Manly Beach (the 2 most famous beaches, Manly is a great ferry ride from the city). Other places include the Homebush area (where most of the Olympic events were held, 15km from downtown), the Blue Mountains (a beautiful range of mountains, 1 to 1 and a half hours from Sydney), Port Stephens and the Hunter Valley (beautiful beaches and wineries, 2 to 2 and a half hours from Sydney).

Whereas Sydney is a brash, cosmopolitan city, Melbourne is a more cultured, reserved city, which has a very different European feel to it, whereas Sydney has a San Francisco-like east meets west feel to it. Melbourne came to prominence on the back of the Victorian gold rush during the 1850 and 1860s and at one stage was the largest city and capital of the country, until the compromise capital of Canberra was built between the two main cities. Melbourne gained a great culinary and cafe culture largely due to huge numbers of Italian, Greek and former Yugoslav migrants following WWII, coupled with the retention of trams and grand Victorian-era architecture still give the city a European air about it. I’d recommend seeing the city and Southbank area just south of the city centre including Crown Casino (even if you’re not a fan of gambling, it’s a colossal centre with many other distractions), St Kilda (a bayside suburb 10km from the city), the Melbourne Cricket Ground (Australia’s largest and most famous stadium, holding a capacity over 100,000), Lygon Street in Carlton (just north of the city and home to great cafes and Italian restaurants). Other places to visit could be Ballarat (an hour from Melbourne and gold rush centre), Bendigo (another city built from gold, 1 hr and a half from Melbourne), and Torquay (a beachside suburb, one hr from Melbourne where Harold Holt, Prime Miinister at the time disappeared).

Brisbane is often referred to a big country town but in the last two decades since World Expo ’88 has transformed itself into a modern, cosmopolitan metropolis. Helped from large interstate and overseas migration, Brisbane’s population and influence within Australia has doubled in the last two decades. It and its brash neighbour, the Gold Coast attract scores of domestic and international tourists who take in the beautiful beaches, nightlife, wonderful scenery in the hinterland, and many amusement parks and other attractions. Whilst, Brisbane and the Gold Coast doesn’t have as much history as Melbourne or Sydney, it makes up for it with its weather, beaches and modern attractions. The Sunshine Coast an hr and a half north of the city, is another booming area of golf courses, beachside resorts and natural beauty. Further north in Queensland is the Great Barrier Reef with its beautiful, endless reefs of coral and resorts. Townsville and Cairns up in the north of the State are tropical tourist oases with easy access to the Great Barrier Reef and other attractions and worth a visit if you have the time.

Canberra, the national capital and 2 and a half hrs from Sydney, is another place worth a visit if you are interested in the country’s history, culture and development. A planned city, developed over the 20th century it has wide boulevards, scores of interesting museums, art galleries and government institutions but little other distractions. A lot of Australians find the city boring, dry and difficult to get around but if you like history and a culture, it’s  a must see which can be done in two to three days. I recommend the excellent Australian War Museum, Parliament Houses (both new and old), the new national museum, the science centre and the Art gallery.

Perth is unique in that it has virtually half a continet to itself. One of the most isolated cities in the world, Perth and its surrounding centres are separated for two thousand kilometres by seemingly arid wasteland and desert. Perth has developed its own brash, modern feel and is a fast-moving modern city, growing at a fast rate largely thanks to Western Australia’s abundance of natural resources. Like Brisbane, Perth was once a relative backwater but has doubled in the last 20 years to a metropolis rapidly approaching two million people. Large scale immigration particularly from the UK, the Indian subcontinent and South Africa has given Perth a more cosmpolitan, less provincial feel. Set on the banks of the Swan River, it’s a beautfiul modern city, though be warned the city experiences a dry Indian summer where temperatures can often reach 40 Celsius until the coastal ‘Fremantle Doctor’ breeze arrives to quell the heat in the late afternoon. I recommend the city and Swan river, the beautiful, yet sometimes strong beaches with their torquise water, the port of Fremantle and its beautful retained historic centre, Rottnest Island, and if you have time the Margaret River district a couple of hours south of the city.

The Northern Territory is in many ways still Australia’s last frontier, but that is slowly changing. Consisting of a tropic north and desert centre with a whole lot of savannah in between, it is where Australia’s current and future meet with Australia’s past. The Northern Territory’s population is roughly 30% indigenous and as a result Australia’s indigenous cultures and their histories and hardships are much more apparent, respected and observed in the Northern Territory. Whilst, the race relations between indigenous and non-indigenous are often far from perfect in NT, it is one part of Australia where indigenous culture has been largely given the respect that it is due and as such is something the rest of Australia could learn from. That said, there still are very substantial differences, past atrocities and animosities and present troubles to be fully addressed. Darwin is an interesting, strong and resilient place. Bombed by the Japanese, devastated by Cyclone Tracy, the city has rebounded and is now bigger than ever. Growing rapidly due to its proximity to Asia, increasing military presence, improved infrastructure links and mineral boom, the city once-mocked by southerners is now one facing a very promising future. The city has long been one of the most multicultural in Australia with its both long standing and more recent European, Asian and indigenous population, it truly is a melting pot of several very distinct cultures with a fascinating hybrid culture the result. I’d recommend taking in the city and its various attractions and cuisine and Kakadu National park, a beautiful tropical wilderness several hours east of the city. The Red Centre is centred on the outback city of Alice Springs, which is a great launching pad for Uluru (Ayers Rock) several hours away. The city itself has many tourist attractions and cultural experiences along with the opportunity to go camel riding among other things.

Adelaide in South Australia is a refined, cultured, sedate city which prides itself on having never been a penal colony. The city was founded in the 1830s and is a beautful planned city with an abundance of gardens, parks and green space. It was once the 3rd largest city in Australia but has stagnated in the past three decades often due to the loss of manufacturing base to Asia. Nevertheless the city still has plenty to offer and is a little more relaxing and friendly than some of the larger, faster-moving cities. I’d recommend the city centre, Glenelg (a beachside suburb) and the nearby Barossa Valley wine-growing district established by German Lutherans 150 years ago and still with a unique antipodean German feel to it.

Tasmania is a beautiful isle separated by Bass Strait, and has wonderful scenery and countyside with a more mild, temperate climate. Hobart, the capital, is Australia’s 2nd oldest capital and as such has an abundance of historic attractions. Tasmania has the dark mark of in the past being home to some of the most violent and dangerous criminals, who were housed at Port Arthur penal settlement (an hr from Hobart), and with extermining all of Tasmania’s full-blooded indigenous population during the 19th century. Thankfully, Tasmania is a much friendlier place these days with beautiful scenery especially in the Cradle Mountain national park in the centre of the state and the wildnerness areas of the west coast. Relatively largely unaffected by a lot of the cultural and demographic changes which have swept Australia over the past five decades, Tasmania is still largely a microcosm of past ‘British’ Australia, where folks are friendly, polite but overwhelmingly Anglo-Celtic.

Hope that helps. Australia’s economy and cost of living would be on a par with North America’s, with its dollar slightly weaker than the US’s at the moment. Sydney and the other big cities can be expensive in terms of accommodation, food and other attractions especially in the city and around tourist resorts. Some parts of the city can get rough particularly at night, though most of the bad neighbourhoods are well away in the suburbs, though the city centres and nightclub districts can get a little dodgy at night so exercise some caution. If travelling, in summer, exercise caution as the temeratures can get high and often it cane be windy. Dress appropriate to the weather, keep yourself adequately covered with a hat, sunscreen and sunglasses as the Ozone hole gives an extra bite to the summer heat!


Remastered – Photos of the Past

December 16, 2009

I’ve spent the last two evenings working on touching up some of the more interesting, colourful or artistic photographs I’ve taken of my travels in the Asia-Pacific region over the past six and a half years. Usually I don’t retouch, process or manipulate my photos in any way after taking them,  uploading  onto the computer and eventually online. Though, since I have Photoshop and it cost a fortune to buy I’ve decided to work some of my old photos taking advantage of some of the nifty features the computer program offers. I’m still a beginner at digital manipulation as previously the only time I’ve ever re-edited photos was to manipulate my crooked teeth into something more appealing!

Working on these photos has brought back memories of all the places I’ve been to over the past few years. It’s a blessing to live in the modern world and be freely able to travel extensively and see new places, and experience new cultures. I hope I can do so for many more years to come.

Here are some samples of the album below, the full collection can be found on my Facebook album.

Enjoy~!


While the world’s eyes are on Copenhagen, spare a thought for Kiribati

December 10, 2009

While the world’s eyes are on Copenhagen, spare a thought for Kiribati. Kiribati is sinking and predictions are within fifty years the entire nation of 32 atolls and a raised coral island stretching over 3,500,000 square kilometres, a larger area than India, across the central tropical Pacific Ocean may well be permanently submerged and consequently unlivable for its 100,000 citizens. It along with fellow Pacific island nation, Tuvalu – and its 10,000 citizens, stand to lose the most from climate change and resultant sea level rises with the two nations predicted to be the first to go under.

Tuvaluan village - a tropical paradise soon to be lost forever

Whilst, both island nations are veritable tropical paradises, their key vulnerability is their tiny elevations above sea level, an average of just two metres for Kiribati and a highest point of just 4.5 metres above sea level for Tuvalu, the second lowest in the world. (The Maldives actually has the lowest maximum elevation of just 2.3 metres above sea level and an average of just 1.5 metres above sea level. It, too is in danger of sinking fast having already experienced sea level increases of 20 centimetres in the last century).

Activists in Copenhagen protesting on behalf of island nations for a better deal in dealing with climate change and resultant sea level rises affecting their nations

The situation has become so tense that the Kiribati President, Anote Tong, called on Australia and New Zealand to accept his citizens as permanent refugees, having stated that the country has already reached “the point of no return”. He also has stated that he will consider buying land to relocate his citizens if no other situation options can be found. Adding that “to plan for the day when you no longer have a country is indeed painful but I think we have to do that.”

Australia and New Zealand, the largest nations in Oceania, to their credit have started to make preparations to help and support the beleaguered I-Kiribatis and Tuvaluans by assisting in training and education programmes.  But, Kiribati officials in Copenhagen are saying that the regional powers of the south Pacific are not doing enough to address the potentially catastrophic consequences of having over 100,000 individuals having to emigrate and be permanently relocated due to environmental factors in the near future.

The oncoming, endless waves of the Pacific inundating a Kiribati village. A depressing but increasingly common sight in Kiribati

Unfortunately for the citizens of Kiribati and Tuvalu, it appears Anote Tong may be right, we have already reached the point of no return. Whether you agree that climate change has been accelerated by human activities or not, this is regardless a tragedy of epic proportions for the Pacific island residents of Kiribati and Tuvalu, whose nations have done next to nothing to contribute to climate change but will be the first to bear the consequences of it. For this reason, I hope and trust the Governments of Australia and New Zealand, along with other developed nations – the prime contributors to accelerated climate change, do their utmost to repatriate, house and educate these innocent victims of global climate change.

The tragedy of a real paradise lost in the near future


A good book worth a read is …

December 3, 2009

A good book worth a read is China – Fragile Superpower by China expert,  former Deputy Assistant Secretary of State under the Clinton administration and current professor on International Relations and Pacific Studies, Susan Shirk.

The book explains and examines the many complex factors which define, underline, and often potentially undermine the Chinese Communist Party (CCP) as it continues to weave the fine line of keeping its economy going along steadily whilst keeping its increasingly mobile, educated, spirited and critical populace happy, (or at least pre-occupied with other concerns), all the while having to deal with trade agreements and alliances, foreign partners and former foes, disputed regions and potential flashpoints both within and near the country.

Having opened up to the world with Nixon’s state visit in 1972 and furthermore in 1979 with Deng Xiaoping’s economic reforms of “socialism with capitalist characteristics” which have transformed the sleeping giant into an economic dragon in a generation, the CCP can no longer rely on trotting out the old Communist lines that once placated the masses as its increasingly sophisticated and educated populace no longer believe it. What the CCP has found as a substitute in motivating and rallying the public behind a uniting cause is to use nationalism as a basis to underpin Chinese identity and enable the CCP to continue with its agenda. The trouble comes though when its time to rein in the masses once their spleen has been opened to vent against a common foe (usually either Japan*, Taiwan or the US) before it either jeopardises foreign relations and trade, leads to war or – what the CCP fear the most – brings down the central communist Government.

* – The 2005 anti-Japanese demonstrations are one such notable example where the powers that be initially supported and allowed the masses to protest, before deciding to clamp down on the protests a month later as they were starting to impact negatively on China’s trade relationship with Japan and China’s image abroad.

The book clearly details and explains the many push-pull factors and balancing efforts the CCP and its many and various wings have to manipulate in order to achieve internal unity and stability whilst at the same time not jeopardise its foreign relations and trade on which the economy relies on to grow, as the CCP well know once the economy dips and jobs become scarce, the conditions become ripe for civil unrest which is the worst case scenario for the CCP.

Shirk’s book also looks at the power structures and hierarchy of the various branches of the CCP and China’s all-powerful military, whom the CCP know they must appease lest there be any military revolt.

Chinese – Fragile Superpower does a thorough job of explaining and detailing the many domestic and foreign issues which the CCP must manage to keep the world’s most populous, and 3rd largest (both physically and economically) nation progressing without disintegrating as the world is more intertwined than ever and China and the US, as the book demonstrates, are intricately connected so that if one economy collapses the other will too, and with that a massive black eye or worse for the world as a whole.

Now that China has been opened and its economy set rolling it simply cannot turn back. The CCP know this all too well and now are more fragile and paranoid than ever to keep the lid on firmly so that they stay in control.

A fascinating book and must-read for anyone interested in China, US-Chinese relations, China’s relations with its neighbours, and China’s many problems and issues with its huge, dynamic and diverse population.


Will South Korea eventually have a higher GDP per capita than Japan?

November 29, 2009

Will South Korea eventually have a higher GDP per capita than Japan?

Most people reading this question would have no trouble answering almost immediately with an emphatic No! Some would probably snort or chuckle at the mere suggestion but as time goes on and – if North Korea doesn’t collapse in the foreseeable future – I think answering Yes isn’t all that far-fetched considering a number of variables at play in modern Japan and South Korea.

First, let’s look at the current GDP per capita figures for both Japan and South Korea. Surely, Japan’s miles ahead of South Korea, it’s one of the richest countries in the world after all! Well, the truth is that Japan was one of the richest countries in the world and that since its over decade long slowdown it has never fully regained its feet nor found significant strategies to improve its rut. The most recent figures from the International Monetary Fund (IMF), World Bank and CIA World Factbook indicate that Japan has a Gross Domestic Product at purchasing power parity per capita (in US dollars) of $34,166, $34,099 and $34,000 respectively, placing Japan as only the 24th, 18th and 28th richest country in the world respectively. These figures came as huge shock to me as I’ve known for a long time that Japan has had an extended rut, but I never foresaw just how significant that rut has been. I still thought that Japan was still one of the ten richest countries in the world, if not surely in the top 15. But, as you can see I was wrong.

Back in 1990, according to World Bank and CIA World Factbook figures, Japan was the ninth richest country in the world with a GDP (at PPP) per capita of $24,430. Whereas, South Korea’s GDP per capita was a much more humble $6,153 being ranked all the way down at #48. Just less that twenty years ago, South Korea was nearly four times comparatively poorer than Japan was!

Now, let’s have a look at South Korea’s current GDP (at PPP) per capita figures to determine just how big a gap still exists between Japan and South Korea economically. South Korea’s current GDP (at PPP) per capita figures come out as $27,692, $27,939,and $27,600 according to the IMF, World Bank and CIA World Factbook respectively. That places South Korea at 33rd, 24th, and 39th on the world’s richest nations totem poles respectively, and just nine, six, and eleven positions behind Japan according to the figures calculated by the IMF, World Bank and CIA.

This is a tremendous improvement in the past twenty years on South Korea’s behalf and an incredible bridging on what was a huge gap between Japan and South Korea. South Korea was, on average, $18,277 ‘poorer’ than Japan in 1990 compared being on average to just $6,474, $6,160 and $6,400 ‘poorer’ now depending on whoever’s stats you prefer. At this rate, South Korea should overtake Japan sometime within the next decade! Well, let’s not just yet get ahead of ourselves …

Regardless, this is a phenomenal improvement in South Korea’s relative wealth compared with Japan’s, especially considering both countries experienced the devastating Asian Financial Crisis of the late ’90s. If these stats are anything to go by, it seems to show that South Korea managed to ride out the storm and keep on moving about after the AFC whereas Japan has just never been the same.

Now I’m no economist, far from it. Despite having to take two year’s worth of economics classes at uni I’d be buggered if I remember the difference between macroeconomics and microeconomics, and all those charts we used to draw and analyse seemed more like an educated guess than scientific analysis to me. But, nevertheless these figures are interesting and somewhat compelling, despite knowing some of the inevitable questions , queries and disputes to be raised from more economically-minded individuals on this analysis:

These figures just reflect what happens when you compare the growth of a nation with high growth rates moving from a developing to a developed economiy as opposed to a firmly developed economy which has stabilised and plateaued.

- Well, you’re most likely right there. Japan, too, was once a developing country with high growth rates relying largely on an export-oriented economy with its highly skilled, hardworking labour force. South Korea followed and expanded on Japan’s business model to get to where it is today where it competes and seemingly more frequently beats its longer established Japanese rivals, who they not so long ago sought to emulate. South Korea did indeed receive significant capital enumerations and labour skills training from the Japanese during the Park Chung-hee era to help kickstart its economy, and indeed Korea would not be where it is today without this assistance, and a lot of assistance from other nations – in particular, the US – during its economic developing period following the Korean War.

The more critical question will be whether South Korea can continue to expand on its growth and economy, and manage to stabilise – which it inevitably will* do at some point -at a higher economic plane than Japan.

* – a country which is effectively an island (thanks to North Korea) with a rapidly aging workplace, one of the lowest birth rates in the world (though Japan’s is darn low too), an ethnically homogeneous nation displaying growing pains at allowing a larger proportion of non-locals in, and being right near a nation in China with all the economic benefits for growth (a huge, still largely untapped rural labour force that will work for peanuts; an ever-growing, ever-affluent , ever-consuming, educated and hardworking middle class;  furtheringly sophisticated technology and consumer goods and a huge landmass) will surely taper South Korea’s growth sooner than later. Unless, of course, South Korea can manage to successfully walk the tightrope and capitalise on China’s growth.

South Korea has a reputation for being slow to change, what with its chaebols and corrupt businessman, its sometimes myopic, outdated viewpoints, its Confucian-based traditions and still significant xenophobia.

- Well, again you make good points. But, again I think everything you mentioned could also be applied to Japan. Furthermore, you could well argue that Japan has had a good two to three to four decade jump on South Korea to assess, adjust and alleviate these issues but in Japan today these issues are to some degree still as relevant now as they were in 1970, 1980 and 1990. Japan has undoubtedly changed and modified its economy, society and psyche over the past few decades, it’s just my belief that South Korea has done so more – granted it started from a much lower base – and also my hunch that South Korea is prepared to continue to do so to a greater degree than Japan will. I base this assumption largely on South Korea’s obsessive drive to learn English and further open its economy and society, and its obsession with being an economic power. Japan’s already been an economic and cultural power, perhaps it won’t be as inclined to put in the hard yards to continue to be an economic and cultural power, particularly with the rising dragon of China just round the corner.

In my view, Japanese society has reached the enlightenment stage when an economy gets to the point that its citizens – in particularly its youth – start questioning whether it’s worth breaking your back and spending all your time working to ‘get ahead’, and start to re-assess just what is important in life. This is largely great news for individuals in Japan but not so good news if you want your economy to grow at any cost, as people become less inclined to do that bit more to ‘get’ ahead when they question whether it will really help them in the long run. Japan, I believe, has increasingly entered this stage over the past decade whereas I believe it’s still a good 5 to 10 years away until South Korean society really starts to question the get ahead and work hard at all costs mentality on a significant level.

How’s South Korea going to grow when its got no kids, everyone’s over sixty and they don’t really want outsiders moving in?

- Again, valid points. But, again points that could equally be leveled at Japan. In fact, whereas South Korea does have one of the lowest birth rates in the world (Japan’s is lower), at least its population is growing whereas Japan’s is already starting to decline.

OK, yes, South Korea AND Japan are two of – if not – the most ethnically homogeneous nations on Earth which have over recent history shown a reluctance to actively use immigration as a ways of growing their populations and economies, instead actively trying technology and ethnic-focused immigration as a means to alleviate these problems. Both countries, according to recent statistics, still have low immigration rates. Japan’s is higher than South Korea’s as South Korea actually has a negative growth rate due to higher numbers of individuals emigrating than immigrating.

Conclusion

So, as these figures show South Korea has indeed experienced a rapid, sustained period of economic growth which is continuing to this day despite the huge setbacks of the Asian Financial Crisis in the late ’90s and recent Global Financial Crisis. Japan, on the other hand, has slowly gone off the boil in terms of its economic development to the degree that South Korea is now within sight of catching up with Japan’s GDP (PPP) per capita with the next decade, something that would have either been laughed at, mocked or scorned by most individuals just 10 or 15 years ago.

Can South Korea catch up with Japan’s GDP per capita? Who really knows. A lot depends on what occurs in South Korea and Japan, a whole series of factors and variables come into play that make it seemingly impossible to accurately predict whether South Korea will indeed one day surpass Japan’s GDP per capita. These variables become all the more complicated when we figure in external factors such as China and North Korea. East Asia is one of the most dynamic, volatile regions of the planet. Who knows just what exactly could develop over the next five years here. There’s an infinite numbers of critical developments or disasters that should significantly effect not just this region but the entire world.

All that said, I do believe that South Korea has significant chance of one day within the next 15 years having a higher GDP per PPP than Japan. How long it would occur for and what happens after that is anyone’s guess.