I’ve uploaded photos from my trip along the east coast and inland to Andong three weeks back. It was a great little trip and I really enjoyed traveling by myself via rail, bus and foot with no clear plans or itinerary on where to go next.
Andong‘s a cultural treasure somewhat overshadowed by the former Shilla capital, Gyeongju, but is most definitely worth a visit. Like Gyeongju, a lot of the cultural sites are outside the city centre and require wheels of some form or another to get to. Admirably, the local tourist centre has done a great job of producing English language maps and information on what buses and where to take them from to get to all the tourist sites. Andong takes a good two to three to really see, and having only tipped the iceberg in one day, I’ll be sure to get back there before my time is up in Korea.
The east coast is an absolutely beautiful and under-rated part of South Korea, I strongly recommend the train trip between Gangneung, on the east coast, and Andong, in the interior. The train gently glides down the largely desrted beaches of the east coast for about 100 kilometres and then winds into the mountains through rustic villages seemingly unchanged over the past few decades – it is rural Korea at its finest. Below are sample photos of my trip to Sokcho and Seoraksan, and Andong. The full albums are located here and here.
Sokcho and Seoraksan
Sokcho beach vista
Mountain vista inside Seoraksan National Park
Inside the woods of Seoraksan
Soldier on watch - guarding the east coast by potential North Korean incursions - the deserted, fenced off beaches of the east coast are potent reminder of a still fractured peninsula
Andong
Citizens' bell in downtown Andong
Along a winding path in Hahoe folk village
Traditional swings which are somewhat reminiscent of Biblical crufixes
I’m currently in a coffee shop in Gangneung, Gangwon-do on the east coast of South Korea. Since Saturday, I’ve traveled north to Iksan then way over to Sokcho via Seoul. Sokcho is on the far north east coast of Korea and is actually north of the 38th parallel, being under North Korean control for the bulk of the Korean War. As such, there are since many army patrols and fenced off beaches – unfortunately – as the North Koreans have been known to have come onto the beaches in the cover of darkness and abduct hapless locals just for the hell but thankfully that hasn’t happened for many years and didn’t happen to me.
Whilst in Sokcho, I went to nearby Seoraksan mountains, which is a oddly assorted, strikingly beautiful outcrop of jagged peaks. Well worth the visit, I took plenty of photos. The beaches are there are great too, but I didn’t bother swimming.
Up there is real country – perhaps more so than even Jeollanam-do – and as such I had trouble getting the right bus connections to Gangneung where I am now as I left my guidebook at home and barely anyone speaks English. But, it was all fun.
From here, I head down to Andong, which is famous for its Korean folk village and mask festival. After that I’ll probably head home. I’ve enjoyed this trip so far as I like seeing different parts of Korea as they are often so similar to other parts yet so different, and it’s the differences that make them interesting.
I spent Seollal firstly visiting friends in Seoul and then headed over to Chuncheon in Gangwon-do with my buddy for some outdoor ice skating and perhaps a spot of ice fishing too. You may remember Chuncheon from my visit not long ago.
Indeed, it’s the second time I’ve been there in two months and it’s rapidly becoming my favourite city in Korea for several reasons. Firstly, Chuncheon’s a medium-sized, comfortable city of around 250,000 people – similar in size to Suncheon yet it seems to have more attractions and interests to keep you busy along with more Western amentities in the way of restaurants etc.; which leads onto my second reason being Chuncheon is beautifully located amongst mountains and surrounded by man-made lakes ideal for cycling, hiking, fishing, skating, and skiing depending on the season.
Thirdly, Chuncheon’s the set of several Korean dramas in the past and as such has become somewhat of a tourist destination for Japanese housewives and seemingly quite a few Chinese and Taiwanese tourists too given the number of authentic Chinese restaurants I saw – albeit not many but more than you’d expect in a Korean city of its size.
And, last but not least the people seem .. well, friendly and more accommodating to non-Koreans than in Suncheon. Chuncheon is nearby the DMZ and up until recently had a large US base smack bang in the middle of town but they’ve since moved out and it seems Japanese housewives and Chinese students have taken their place; the end result is that the locals are relatively accustomed to and accommodating to furriners, at least more so than in the Deep South of the ROK, where I live.
Being close to the DMZ means you see many young Korean soldiers on their compulsory military service and sense a somewhat more heightened attitude towards their long-lost brethren in the north. Chuncheon and Gangwon-do in general was the base of some of the heaviest fighting in the Korean War – it changed hands several times – and the locals suffered a lot during this time with the city being pretty much razed. As such, there seems to be somewhat more appreciation towards the Allied forces’ help during that time, at least more than you sense down here. Albeit, where I live was a Communist stronghold before, during and just after the war. The locals on the whole down here moderately appreciate not having to eat tree bark for breakfast like their northern brethren but hold a load more resentment than appreciation towards non-Koreans, no matter where they’re from. The longer I’m here, the more I realise this part. I am being a bit harsh here but I’ve become fairly jaded with this place as nearly all my Korean ‘friends’ here have gone on to show their true colours in one way or another eventually…
So, the contract’s up in four months. The economy’s screwed back home. Teaching English in South Korea’s an extremely comfortable job. Perhaps, a university job in Chuncheon is my next adventure! We’ll see …
The third installment of my series of photos from last week comes from Chuncheon, the provincial capital of Gangwon-do. Chuncheon is a city of roughly 250,000 people, similar to my Korean home of Suncheon, and is a beautiful spot surrounded by lakes, mountains and scenic, rustic countryside. Despite being less than 100 kilometres from the sprawling, bustling behemoth that is Seoul and surrounds, it feels like a million miles away in distance and time. A very pleasant city and worth a look either in summer for swim, spring from when the city derives it’s name ‘spring creek’, autumn when the leaves change colour or winter for a spot of outdoor ice skating and ice fishing.
Men fishing by the lake
Pretty lakeside scene
Looking back at 'Chuncheon girl' across Lake Uiam towards the mountains surrounding Chuncheon
It was quite cold, ice lingered on the edges of the lake from sub-zero weather the week before
I got back last night from my little adventure around the southern half of the Han (Korean) peninsula. I had a good time and saw lots of interesting things – big and small – which I’ll add onto this blog in the upcoming week. I spent the first three days in the Seoul region crashing at my friend’s place, then moved onto the pleasant city of Chuncheon in Gangwon-do (province), then headed down south to Daegu, where I met my friend from Suncheon for the weekend, and finally made the trek back to the ‘Dirty South’ – Jeollanam-do and my humble abode in Suncheon. The highlights were finally getting up to the DMZ and Panmunjeom, heading over to Chuncheon and Gangwon-do for the first time, and looking all over Daegu. It was a good little vacation, a nice break and it’ll be a nice little filler of work for three weeks until I have two weeks back in Australia for Christmas and my brother’s wedding. I’m enjoying my extra vacation time from this year’s job compared with my last four year’s of minimal vacation time.