Korea : more or less xenophobic now – interested in your thoughts

December 12, 2009

There’s been a lot of buzz lately in the Korean press, expat discussion boards, blogosphere, and now Western media over the Anti-English Spectrum group who have actively since 2005 been campaigning to protect Korean children and citizens from ‘rouge’ native English teachers. While on the surface this may sound like a noble enough quest, a quick look under the surface discovers their true modus operandi.

The group was set up largely as a result of a former ex-pat English teacher discussion board, English Spectrum, which by all accounts was very loosely moderated – to their detriment – and included a mock post on how to molest students, posts on sexual encounters with Korean women, and pictures of young ex-pats drinking and fondling consenting young Korean women at parties. These individuals posted enough highly provocative posts and pictures that it eventually (and inevitably) caught the attention of concerned Korean citizens and Anti-English Spectrum was born. The group’s profile and activities grew exponentially following the arrest of convicted pedophile, Christopher Paul Neil, in 2008 who had taught in Korea though had not committed any offences there.

Rundown on what the 'friendly' folks at Anti-English Spectrum believe lies within a Western English teacher's brain

From that point on, Anti-English Spectrum under its devoted leader, Lee Eun-ung, went into overdrive ‘protecting’ the Korean masses, in particular Korean children and women, from heavy drinking, sex offending, drug abusing, Korean women fondling, no-good Western dropouts who couldn’t find a job elsewhere – apparently the vast majority of native English teachers fit that bill according to the folks at Anti-English Spectrum. Their activities have including stalking native English teachers for months at a time until ‘finding’ an offense to take to the police, posting malicious, false and discriminating posts, having an audience with Government officials on one occasion, and having one member(/s) post death threats to a prominent expat union. Many ex-pats argue that Anti-English Spectrum have largely influenced public opinion of and laws pertaining to native English teachers through their efforts in liaison with the media, police and Government officials. Whereby they have often cited either misleading, incorrect, incomplete or downright false and inflammatory accounts of native English teachers to further their agenda feeding on age-old latent xenophobia still existing in modern South Korean society.

Korean women who hang out with Western males are also targets who are ridiculed, mocked and insulted by Anti-English Spectrum

Korean women who hang out with Western males are also targets of Anti-English Spectrum

A more complete coverage and rundown of Anti-English Spectrum, their history, actions and motives can be found at Andrea Vandom’s excellent, detailed study of the group along with; The Marmot’s Hole, Brian in Jeollanam-do, Gusts of Popular Feeling, three Korea-based ex-pat blogs along with that have extensively followed the Anti-English Spectrum group, their history and activities.

I arrived in Jeonju, South Korea in April 2003, less than one year after the fateful tank accident involving a US military tank and two Korean teenage girls and around the same time as the beginning of the Iraq War. There still was latent anger present at that time towards individuals appearing to be American – pretty much any Westerner -  though these feelings were largely dissipated once people found out your nationality, provided of course you weren’t American, it was a tough time to be American in South Korea.

At the time being wide-eyed and open to new experiences although I felt some tension, even animosity, at my presence from time to time and although many locals were extremely nervous and anxious around my presence during these times as sometimes you truly were the first foreigner locals had ever interacted with, the vast majority of the time I was treated with goodwill, kindness, sincerity and an eagerness to show me the best face Korea had to offer.

Since this time, I have inevitably gone through the peaks and troughs of living abroad in a culture that is vastly different to my home country and the resultant anxiety, alienation, isolation and anger that can result from such, particularly when the host culture is one of the most ethnically homogeneous on Earth with a documented history of xenophobia and mistrust of foreigners – often for purely valid reasons. Most foreigners who landed on Korean shores before mid-last century were not friendly neighbours but more conquerors, mercenaries and invaders.

As time has gone on I have changed and Korea has changed alongside with me. The change and development within Korea in the short time I have been here has been truly remarkable though some thing take longer to change than others. Korea, in my mind, is now more familiar with Westerners and while many may be more comfortable with our presence, this is not entirely true for all individuals. Whereas, when I first came to Korea I was often the source of constant astonishment, curiosity and interest this is not so much the case these days as most people have seen plenty of people who look similar to me for a number of years now.

Unfortunately, what has sometimes followed in its place is a feeling of jadedness, insecurity and in some individuals, even animosity and hate, to what I am and what I appear to stand for and represent. Whilst, by no means most individuals feel threatened, uncomfortable or even angry at my presence, it is there and has been something that hasn’t – nor probably will – leave Korean society, though the same is true of every society on Earth, there will always be those who dislike the different, the ‘outsiders’, the foreigners.

Learning a bit of the language and being able to understand a reasonable amount of what is being said in my presence – as any Korean learner in Korea can attest – can be a blessing and a curse for often locals with use their language as a cloak of fraternity and partnership among each other – essentially closing in the wagons and will often freely express their true feelings under this cloak – believing the foreigner does not understand – whilst often saying or appearing to say something different.

Whilst, Korea’s experiences are by no means unique and a clearly sign of a once homogeneous country coming to terms with a sudden, rapid influx of foreign nationals on its shores – something which all Western nations themselves have gone through to one degree or another. I often likened Korea to 1950s Australia, when all of a sudden the majority Anglo-Celtic population – who in 1947 comprised a whooping 90% of the Australian population – had to come to terms with the rapid influx of thousands and thousands of displaced Europeans (and in later waves from the 70s onwards Asians, people from the Middle East, Oceania and Africa) seeking a new life and more often than not coming with a different appearance, different tongue, different palate, different customs and different culture. In many ways, Australia itself – despite being one of the most multicultural Western democracies – still has a long way yet to go until there is true equality amongst all ethnic groups living in the country.

I believe Korea will grow from these growing pains of being a newly open, modern society and will move on to become more inclusive and accepting of individuals who may not look, act or speak like the local populace. Though, it will take time and it will take honest discussions and discourse on just what direction Korea wants to take, otherwise there’s the potential of a growing disenfranchised, maligned or disadvantaged subset of the local population creating problems for social harmony and integration of ethnically non-Koreans in Korean society.

Time will tell and sometimes I wonder I have the patience to stick around and see whether Korea can become the truly great, integrated society it has the potential to become. It does have a lot going for it.

I’m interested in your thoughts on modern Korean society and its race relations and xenophobia. What it was like in the past, what is it like now and what do you believe it will be like in the future?


What’s my dong mean?

August 16, 2009

I like to find out the meanings of the areas, places and suburbs (or dongs [동 | 洞] as the Korean equivalent of suburbs are called) that I live in. Often there’s an interesting cultural or historical reference attached to the name of the place you’re living in or visiting.

Such as my childhood suburb of West Pymble - did you know Mel Gibson lived there in his youth? I didn’t know this nor meet him, must have been before my time! – was named after Robert Pymble, an influential early settler in the Sydney region. Whereas, the local council of Ku-ring-gai was named after the Kuringgai people who were the original inhabitants of the Central coastal region of New South Wales on which Sydney now sits. In my youth, I went to high school in Turramurra, which was the local Kuringgai peoples’ name for ‘big hill’ – my high school had a great view of downtown Sydney 18 kilometres away, overlooking extensive bushland of the Lane Cover River valley.

One thing I like about Korea is that seemingly every locality name has some cultural and/or historical reference to it with the majority of words being of Sino-Korean origin, ie. being derived from Chinese characters, such as Suncheon (순천 | 順天) which roughly translates as ‘orderly heaven’ – I’m still trying figure out just what exactly that means four years on! Whilst, many are also indigenous Korean words such as Seoul (서울) which means ‘capital’ in ‘Pure’ Korean.

Last year, I searched out some place names  of relevance to me – having either lived, worked or traveled there extensively in the last few years – and came with the results below.

My favourites are Yeonhyang-dong which comes out ‘lotus fragrence’ village, Haeryong-myeon which comes out as ‘sea dragon’ township and Jorye-dong which comes out as ‘reflective courtesy’ whatever the hell that means! Though, sometimes place names may be the amalgamate of the first letters of two localities merged together at point in history, resulting in somewhat odd literal meanings, as Jorye-dong may be an example of. The dong (or suburb) I currently live in is Dongoe-dong which literally means ‘east outside’ village, which no doubt is a reference to its location just outside the old city walls of Suncheon.

Jeollanam-do & Jeollabuk-do place names

全羅南道와 全羅北道의 地名

전라남도와 전라북도 지명

Suncheon-si 순천시 [順天市] orderly.heaven.city ‘Orderly heaven’

Jangcheon-dong 장천동 [長泉洞] long.spring.village ‘Long spring’

Yeonhyang-dong 연향동 [蓮香洞] lotus.fragrance.village ‘Lotus fragrance’

Jeojeon-dong 저전동 [楮田洞] mulberry.field.village ‘Mulberry fields’

Jogok-dong 조곡동 [稠谷洞] dense.ravine.village ‘Dense ravine’

Jungang-dong 중앙동 [中央洞] middle.centre.village ‘Central’

Dongoe-dong 동외동 [東外洞] east.outside.village ‘Eastside’

Haeryong-myeon 해룡면 [海龍面] sea.dragon.township ‘Sea dragon’

Jorye-dong 조례동 [照禮洞] reflective.courtesy.village ‘Reflective courtesy’

Wangjo-dong 왕조동 [旺照洞] prosperous.reflective.village ‘Reflective prosperity’

Wangji-dong 왕지동 [旺之洞] prosperous.this.village ‘Prosperous village’

Geumdang-jigu 금당지구 [金塘地區] golden.pond.area ‘Golden pond’

Sangsa-myeon 상사면 [上沙面] above.sand.township ‘By the sand’

Buddhist temples

Seonamsa 선암사 [仙巖寺] transcendent.cliff.temple ‘Zen precipice’

Songgwangsa 송광사 [松廣寺] pine.wide ‘Expanse of pines’

Gwangju gwangyeok-si 광주광역시 [光州廣域市] bright.province.wide.district.city ‘City of light’ metropolitan city

Hwajeong-dong 화정동 [花亭洞] flower.pavilion.village ‘Flower pavilion’

Yang-dong 양동 [良洞] gentle.village ‘Gentle village’

Jeonju-si 전주시 [全州市] whole.province.city ‘Whole province’

Hyoja-dong 효자동 [孝子洞] obedient.child.village ‘Obedient child’

Seosin-dong 서신동 [西新洞] west.new.village ‘New west’

Deokjin-dong 덕진동 [德津洞] virtue.ford.village ‘Virtuous ford’

Pyeonghwa-dong 평화동 [平和洞] peaceful.harmony.village ‘Harmonious peace’

Gwangyang-si 광양시 [光陽市] bright.sun.city ‘Sunshine’

Jungma-dong 중마동 [中馬洞] centre.horse.village ‘Central horse’

If you’re interested yourself in finding out more about place names in Korea, there’s a few sites that can help. The Naver encyclopedia is helpful in finding out the Chinese characters of local place names if you are unaware of them, you just type the place name in Hangeul and a page should come up with information on the locality, though you do need some Korean knowledge for that site. Another good site is the Galbijim Wiki site which has quite extensive information on all matter of things Korean and has the advantage of being in English. And, a good site to find out the etymology of place names in Chinese characters is the Wiktionary site, where you just enter the character whose meaning you are unaware of and it will come up with its meaning, spelling and pronunciation in Korean, Japanese, Chinese and even Vietnamese. Or, you can’t be arsed finding out yourself but are keen to know the meaning of your locality, send us a message and I’ll look her up for you!


I want a rich, handsome Westerner … but, please no English teacher or GI

August 6, 2009

Reading this title you may assume I’ve decided to jump ship and bat for the other team. Well, no, honestly that isn’t the case at all.

The wording behind the title is looking at a common and ever-increasing trend in Korean-foreign online society in which young Koreans – nearly always females – are seeking young, wealthy Westerners who happen to be outside of the much maligned English teacher/GI job spheres.

The reasoning behind this is not surprising given the largely negative press both groups receive in the Korean press on a very common basis. But, I must admit deep down it saddens me when I see a young Korean choose to turn their heads to the potential of making friends with people of the two career paths I honestly believe have helped, more than other expat career fields, make South Korea the 13th largest economy it is today.

Anyone whose spent a decent amount of time in Korea and perhaps managed to learn a bit of lingo – or at least, managed to find some Korea-based English-language discussion boards and/or blogs – realises fairly quickly that GIs and English teachers are not held in particularly high esteem on the Korean peninsula. This is largely due to the media’s over-zealous publishing of seemingly any and every negative story – factual, or more usually embellished or outright false  – regarding GIs or English teachers, when they commit or are perceived to have committed heinous acts. These stories get processed into the recesses of the average Korean individual’s mind and with little or no counterbalancing positive stories to reflect the good that the vast majority of individuals in these positions do, well the mud sticks.

Now, I’m going to come truthful here and tell how I’ve happened to have come across this increasingly prejudicial phenomena affecting Korean twenty- and thirty-somethings. As you may know, I’m a single guy and as such I decided to join one of Korea’s more well-known dating/friendship sites, you know just to see what’s available. Hence, through my perusal of said site, I’ve happened to have come across several young women with seemingly well-developed English skills seeking anyone wealthy (what a surprise!) yet not of the English teacher/GI career paths.

This saddens me, not because I’m desperately seeking stuck-up princesses. But, because hell, their English is so well developed thanks largely – if not entirely – to the work of previous English educators here in South Korea or overseas. In fact, if their English ability was largely acquired overseas, it pains me more to see this prejudice as it shows that they spent time – in some cases, perhaps a significant portion of their lives – overseas yet cannot detach themselves of the prejudice that befalls English teachers and GIs in this nation. As such, whilst they may have learnt the English language, they learnt little critical thinking, reasoning, openmindness and empathetic skills whilst learning said language. And, this saddens me.

I may not be a gung-ho warmonger who loves the military – in particular the US military – and all it sets out to achieve. And, yes the US military did, has and will make plenty of mistakes, including here on Korean soil. But, for the most part I think the US military has done a decent job with the people of South Korea and has such I believe the South Korean populace should at least tolerate, hopefully respect, and if possible, thank the US military more than they do so presently. The US military is far from perfect and its role in the Korean War was also not perfect. But, I still do not believe the US military and its personnel deserve a fraction of the distorted, or wholesale fabricated, half-truths, mistruths and malicious slander it has been known to receive. Or, the grudging animosity, mistrust or downright disdain its soldiers are known to receive at the hands of members of the local population. Having family members in the Australian defense forces and having met some officials of the US military, I know the sacrifices, dedication and often self-less work these individuals put in to protecting others. To see that dedication disregarded or downright treated with disdain, saddens me.

In closing, Korea I already love you but I would respect you a whole lot more if you were to respect those who come from other lands to assist you and your people. 99% of said individuals are decent, law-abiding folk who come with the best of intentions, hoping to help your citizens whilst at the same time perhaps learning a bit more about the country. Most of said individuals are not bad, vile, lecherous, disease-ridden, drug-addled convicts as your media often likes to universally portray.

I ask your people, in particular your young people, to accept, help when needed and welcome those who come, have come and will continue to come to help you become a more developed nation. I know many already do and I thank the kind folks of this country from the bottom of my heart, as I have been truly blessed with kind gestures from friend and stranger alike. I just wish I could see more goodwill being extended to those who come to help and learn more about you and your country. Thank you.


Suncheon’s Old Core :: 순천의 정신 :: 順天의 精神

April 15, 2009

With Spring having sprung and the weather becoming more palatable, barring the Yellow Dust, I’ve spent more time going on and about taking photos of some of the scenery nearby my apartment in ‘old’ downtown Suncheon. My apartment is located in and around the traditional settlement of Suncheon, right by the old city walls – which have now completely disappeared beside some markers here and there – and as such has hundreds of interesting nooks and crannies which thankfully haven’t all been destroyed just yet despite the local council’s (my employer’s) best efforts!

Being Spring I also took the opportunity to take pictures of the blooming flowers, in particular the Cherry Blossom (or 벚꽃, さくら、桜), one of the few pleasant legacies of Japan’s colonisation of the Korean peninsula.

As you’ll see from these photographs below the area is full of life, character and history. Unfortunately, this very character is being torn up bit by bit to make way for wide, modern roads and generic apartment complexes. Even more depressing is that seemingly no one begrudges this march towards modernity and destruction of the past. Granted the ancient schools and Confucian academies will remain but little of the soul and character surrounding these sites will remain as rustic street after rustic street is torn up to make way for progress. Unfortunately, to many locals’ eyes, rustic shacks and old alleyways are merely eyesores and painful reminders of when Korea wasn’t as prosperous as it is today. It’s very understandable really. But,  I just hope that at least some of it will remain so that future generations can fully appreciate where they came from and how their forefathers’ lived.

The whole collection is located at: Suncheon’s Old Core (Part I and Part II).

Enjoy!

Suncheon Jeojeon-dong Catholic Cathedral

Suncheon Jeojeon-dong Catholic Cathedral, the oldest cathedral in town

Suncheon Jeojeon-dong Catholic Cathedral, the oldest cathedral in town

Cherry Blossom tree on the cathedral grounds

Cherry Blossom trees on the cathedral grounds

Okcheon seowon Confucian school (옥천서원 |玉川書院)

500 year old tree nearby Okcheon Seowon Confucian school

500 year old tree nearby Okcheon Seowon Confucian school

Entrance to Okcheon seowon - former Confucian school

Entrance to Okcheon seowon - former Confucian school

Flowers by the river

Suncheon’s soul

Plaque and pavilion inside memorial site

Plaque and pavilion inside memorial site

Pavilion containing beautiful calligraphy and paintings

Pavilion containing beautiful calligraphy and paintings

Old alleyway full of character, unfortunately will most likely be lost in the next few years to make way for a road and/or apartment complex

Old alleyway full of character, unfortunately will most likely be lost in the next few years to make way for a road and/or apartment complex

Main gate to Suncheon Hyang-gyo, former Buddhist school

Main gate to Suncheon Hyang-gyo, former Buddhist school


Dregs of Heaven

March 7, 2009

The ‘Dregs of Heaven’ – odd name for a person, don’t you think? Well, it happens to be the rough English translation of my Korean name and I’ll tell you the story why and how I came to get that name. But, first a little Korean lesson and some background info …

Korean names are typically three syllables long. Typically the first syllable is the Family name – or Surname – (such as Kim, Lee, Park, etc.) and the two remaining syllables are the individuals Given name (or first name, which is kinda ironic as its second but don’t worry about that!). There are, of course, exceptions such as rare family names consisting of two syllables and some individuals only possessing a one syllable given name but 98% of the time this holds true. Bear in mind, that there are only just over 100 family names circulating in South Korea and that the surnames Kim, Lee and Park themselves account for over 45% of the whole population.

Another facet of Korean names is that all family names are derived from a Hanja (Chinese character) base, each with a specific meaning or value. People are then also divided into regional family clans (much like Scottish clans) depending on the location of their family name – the largest group in Korea being the Gimhae Kim clan with over 3,700,000 descendants. Whereas most (over 90%) of given names are derived from a Hanja base, though it can be trendy to have ‘pure-Korean’ given names these days such as 단비 : Dan-bi (sweet rain), 이슬 :  I-seul (dew), 하늘 : Ha-neul (heaven); or even transliterised foreign given names, commonly Biblical names,  such as 샤론 – (Sha-ron) Sharon or 하늬 (Ha-nui) Honey. Apart from the rare examples of foreign names transliterated into Korean, all Korean given names have a specific meaning and often a lot of time and thought is taken into considering the name of a child, so much so that part of a fortune-teller’s trade is in calculating a suitable given name of a client’s child taking into account their birth date and numerous other factors.

So, with that little Korean cultural lesson over for the day, now let’s get onto my story …

Come 2004 and my return to Korea, the fair city of Gwangju to be precise, after a brief sojourn in Australia I was desperate to delve myself deep into Korea, its language and culture from the onset of my second stint in the ‘Land of the Morning Clam Calm’. One of my main hopes in this voyage of Korean discovery was to acquire a Korean name. Perhaps with a Korean name I could feel more belonging and feel more accepted in this alien culture – yes I was a naive fuck back then!

Anyways, I spoke to students about prospective names and happened to randomly meet a group of friendly young dudes and dudettes one night and spoke with them about a prospective Korean name. The most suitable name that came up from these discussions was 백지민 (Baek Ji-min) with 백 (白) Baek, being the family name and 지민 Ji-min (I can’t remember the Hanja form) being the given name. This was deemed suitable as Baek Ji-min sounded quite similar to Benjamin – my real first name.

Come 2006 and becoming quite bored of being told by Koreans that Ji-min was a girly or effeminate name and that only girls or poofters have it – or something of that like, I decided to venture on the quest for a new Korean name. To help in my Korean name acquisition was my former girlfriend’s father. He was – and still is no doubt – a strong, stoic, stocky and friendly 70 year-old descended from the Gaeseong Kim clan in North Korea. Whilst possessing the typically gruff and staid exterior of a Korean 아저씨 ‘ajusshi’ (married man), deep down he was a friendly,  considerate, wise and decent man who always accepted me despite being gasp, horror – a foreigner dating his daughter. I think maybe his personal history had something to do with his somewhat more enlightened approach to having a foreign devil date his daughter. He was born in pre-War (both Korean and WWII) Japanese-occupied Haeju, in North Korea. At the age of 10, I think just after WWII and Korea’s liberation from Japan, his immediate family decided to head south for a better life and not long after all shit hit the fan. He never said too much and I never asked him too much out of respect but I think he always, rightfully, considered himself very lucky and was quite accommodating towards Westerners as he viewed them and South Koreans for that matter as that much better than the alternatives he either grew up with or could have grown up with (that being Japanese and North Koreans).

He was a former Korean language high school teacher and a learned scholar, who took up the challenge of finding me a Korean name with relish. First cut was the surname Baek, meaning ‘white’, my reasoning for that surname was pointing at my skin colour but he deemed that may be viewed as arrogant by other Koreans .. ok, whatever … so he came up with the third most common surname Bak, more commonly seen as ‘Park’ : 박 (朴) – happens to also mean any of  ‘a tree’, ‘simple, unadorned’, or ‘sincere’.

He also wanted to have a name that sounded somewhat similar to my real first name, you know the one on the Birth Certificate and all, so he went for ‘Jae-min’ : 재민 (滓旻) as my given name, whereby the ‘Jae’ (재|滓) part means ‘sediment, lees’, or my favourite ‘dregs’!; and the ‘Min’ (민”旻) part means ‘heaven’ or ‘sky’.

So, there you have it, my Korean name -  Park Jae-min : 박재민 : 朴滓旻 – literally means ‘sincere dregs of heaven’. I still get a chuckle when I think of my Korean name, though I barely use it these days – not that it was ever official in any sense, or on any documents. As  you noticed earlier in this piece, I did mention that my name giver was my former girlfriend’s father. As such, he may at that time have thought that my Korean name meaning ‘sincere dregs of heaven’ was appropriate though I’m sure if you asked him now – I can’t he doesn’t talk to me no more! – I’ve sure he’d refer to me as ‘dregs of (something not quite as flattering)’!

Cheers!